Wednesday, August 23, 2006

Sage has been as committed to performance and innovation as any rod manufacturer in the world. Their dedication to research and development has produced some of the finest fly rods ever conceived. Models like the SP and RPLX helped put Sage in a class reserved for only the best manufacturers. And many argue models like the XP and SLT have sent more than a few companies scurrying to catch up.

Sage, under the guise of company founder Don Green, has been pushing the envelope with state of the art materials from the moment the company opened it's doors in 1980. Sage was the first company to incorporate the use of IM6 (Graphite II) graphite in their rods. Through out the years Sage's use of graphite evolved, from graphite II and then to graphite III, and finally graphite IV. Today, all their high-end rods contain Graphite IIIe, a blend of both graphite III and IV. To date, graphite IIIe has the highest strength to weight ratio on the market. From the outset, the company's goal has been to create rods that generate high line speeds. As thousands of Sage owners will attest, the design of their rods enables the fisherman to have extraordinary line control. Casting a Sage means placing your fly where you want it, not where you hope it goes.


In 1994 Sage brought in Jerry Siem to take over rod development and design. Siem, a Minnesota native, has been responsible for the development of the SLT and XP. These rods quickly found themselves on rivers, streams, and flats all over the world. They are characterized as exceptional casting rods that allow both the novice and the expert to enjoy them tremendously. With the advent of the TCR in 2003 and now the Xi2 in 2004, Jerry has raised the bar for what is known as "fast action rods". Sage has nine separate rod lines, encompassing the spectrum of applications.

Located on Bainbridge Island Washington. Sage was once a company composed of less than ten people, and has now grown to over 130 employees. All of the rods in the Sage line are manufactured under the same roof. On average, it takes thirty-five days and over one hundred separate hand steps to produce a single rod. All Sage rods come with an unconditional lifetime warranty.

The fly angler uses a rod longer and lighter than those used for cast and spin fishing. Fly fishing rods can be as short as 2m (6 ft) long in freshwater fishing and up to 4 m (14 ft) long for saltwater or spey rod fishing. The average freshwater rod is around 8 to 9 feet in length and weighs between 2 and 5 ounces, though a recent trend has popularized lighter, shorter rods.

There are several types of casts in fly fishing that are used in a variety of situations. The most common cast is when the angler whisks the fly rod forward and back using primarily the forearm and upper arm, using the wrist to soften the motion. Generally, the rod is moved from the 10 o'clock position to the 2 o'clock position without letting the line touch the water or ground. The objective of this motion is to "load" the rod tip with energy and allow the energy to travel the length of the fly line creating distance and control. This motion, known as 'false casting', can be used to pay out line, dry a soaked fly, reposition a cast, or show off one's casting abilities. False casting continues until the desired amount of fly line is airborne: perhaps as little as 3m (roughly 10 feet) for small streams, but averaging around 10m (30 feet) in most freshwater conditions. Anything over 18m (60 feet) in freshwater is likely to impress fellow anglers more than the fish, but many saltwater situations call for casts well beyond 25m (82 feet).

When a 'false cast' is 'released' the line floats gently down to the water. Casts are made to an area of the stream represented by a "bioenergetics model". This model represents where a fish in a stream can maximize it's food intake while minimizing its energy output. Once on the water, the fly may either float or sink, depending on the type of fly and the style of fishing. This presentation of the fly onto the water is one of fly-fishing's most difficult aspects, because the angler is attempting to cast in such a way that the line lands smoothly on the water's surface and the fly appears as natural as possible. After several moments the angler withdraws the fly by pulling in a small portion of line by hand (this is called 'tending' the line), then lifting the tip of the rod. The angler then makes another presentation, perhaps after a few false casts. If a fish strikes, the angler pulls in line while raising the rod tip. This sets the hook in the fish's mouth. The fish is then 'played' either by hand, where the angler continues to hold the fly line in his hand to control the tension applied to the fish, or he eliminates the slack in the line to get the fish 'on the reel' in order to use the reel's mechanism ('drag') to slow the fish's runs.

Another aspect of fly fishing is choosing the appropriate 'fly'. While flies originally were made to imitate flying insects, they have evolved to match the diets and stimulants of the targeted species. These can be: aquatic larva and pupae, fish, eggs, worms, grasshoppers, mice, frogs, leeches, etc. Other types of flies are simply 'stimulators' which are used to anger or trigger a natural aggressive response from species such as spawning salmon.

Fly fishing for trout usually takes place in small streams and ponds, as well as rivers or lakes; although the basics are the same, methods and flies vary. Methods and flies also vary substantially across regions and countries. The UK, the United States, Canada, New Zealand, Tasmania, Patagonia and parts of Europe are probably the most common destinations for freshwater trout fishing. World destinations include parts of South America on the Amazon as well as the Patagonia region

Monday, August 21, 2006

Where To Find 10 Fly Fishing Tips In A Single Paragraph by: Donald Berthiaume
When looking for information on how to fly fish, fly fishing tips or fly fishing techniques, many anglers, or anglers to be,who limit their search to books or material written ithin the last few years or decades are short-changing themselves.
Fact is, many anglers continue to miss out on great fly fishing information by not reaching back into the rich history of the sport and seeking the advice and wisdom of true fly fishing pioneers.
Now when I say pioneers, I'm talking about the guys who didn'thave anyone to learn from - the groundbreakers.
Remember that when dry-fly fishing first made its appearance here in America from England it came without instructions.
That's when anglers such as Emlyn Gill, George La Branche, Theodore Gordon and Samuel Camp, just to name a few, came up with their own set of instructions for dry-fly fishing.
Yes, they were the true pioneers - and they wrote the first books about the artistry and craftsmanship of what it took to successfully fly fish in these American waters.
For some strange reason, the last few generations of anglers have not been exposed to this classic fly fishing information that helped shape American dry-fly fishing.
True, there are many fine fly fishing books being published today. But, for some reason, it's the story-telling aspects, only found in the older classics, that can get your blood racing and beckons you to the nearest stream or river.
It's these older classics that represent the very heart and soul of fly fishing; its mystery, its allure.
You've felt it, haven't you?
Fly fishing classics every angler should have as part of their library include a wide array of books written by fly fishers for fly fishers and span anywhere between the early to mid 1900's.
Here is a glimpse of the quality and quantity of fly fishing instructions you can find in any one of these classics. Feel how smooth and flowing they are when being told as a story, as opposed to some stuffy, boring tutorial or manual.
Within these two excerpts (taken from George LaBranche's, Dry Fly and Fast Water) there are no less than 20 fishing tips; at least 10 in each paragraph!
See if you can you spot them.
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Exercising patience, he may walk slowly and quietly into the water at the tail of the stretch and as closely as possible to the bank the fish are under. Having attained the desired position, he should remain there long enough to allow all commotion made by his entry to cease, during which time no motion of the rod should be made, because the sight of any moving object will send the now alert trout scurrying, while the ripples will make him uneasy for a short time only. The horizontal cast should be used if possible. The fly should be floated down about a foot from the bank, and it should not be retrieved until it has traveled more than half the distance between the angler and the spot where it alighted....
When satisfied that no trout are within the section covered by the fly, the angler should lengthen his line and fish the fly a few feet above-always permitting the fly to travel over the water already fished. He should continue this until the maximum line that can be handled neatly without moving from the original position is being cast. When the line becomes unwieldy (in this method and position it is courting failure to attempt anything over thirty-five to forty feet, even if one is expert) an advance may be made a few yards up-stream as closely to the bank as the depth of the water and free casting space will permit. As it is quite possible-and likely, too-that a trout has been under the fly all the while, but was not interested in it, the angler's advance will drive him ahead, and indications of this should be sharply looked for. The discovery of the fish will save much valuable time, for in that case the immediate stretch may be abandoned, because any fish above the one seen will have certainly taken alarm at the actions of his ! fellow and will have lost all desire to feed for some time.
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How did you do? And, that's just within 2 paragraphs! Imagine the number of tips you'll find throughout an entire book!
Reading the early American fly fishing classics is a must for all anglers who are passionate about learning as much as they can about the world's oldest outdoor sport.
Remember, it is from these now classic books that America learned how to fly fish using the dry-fly. Surely, these books haven't lost the capacity to continue to teach more generations the art and craft of fly fishing.

Sunday, August 13, 2006

4 Critical Fly Fishing Tips
by: Frank Faldo

Good Fly Presentation

Obviously, the goal when casting a fly is to present the fly to the fish in a realistic manner. You are trying to simulate nature here. If you are going for trout in a stream, for instance, this means a drag-free float of 36 inches over a precise spot that marks the window of a feeding fish.

Also remember that the Evening Secret (http://www.eveningsecretfishing.com/specialsecret/4_Fly_Fishing_Tips.php) will swarm fish to your spot consistantly, and help you catch more fish.

Never randomly cast – you have got to pick a spot and hit it. Throw tight loops that put the fly on target. One important method that can be used is to overcast the target and stop the line short while it is in the air. The fly should come back to you and fall on the water with slack in the leader.

The best trout fishermen fish with only 30 to 35 feet of line, but make up for this with accurate casting. They read waters will and put the fly in the p ay zone time after time. One of the most important thins they do is to recognize that presentation and approach are much more important than pattern.

It is different for bass. Whether a surface bug or a streamer, the offering must move past a spot where a bass is apt to hold. As the boat drifts, it is important to pick a precise time to shoot a cast to the target. Too soon or too late, and the fly won’t be in the right spot. This is where the double haul form of casting becomes essential. It generates line speed and enables the caster to pick 30 or 40 feet of line off the water and shoot another without false casting.

When bassing, make your presentation, retrieve 10 to 20 feet, pick up, and cast again without the need to false cast. After each one, drop the rod type and keep the butt of the rod near your belt buckle with the tip-top of the rod pointing at the line. A simple lift will let you execute the next pickup or strike a fish.

Leader Connection

If you are a fly caster, you know that a smooth connection between the leader and fly line is important in presentation. The best way to do this is to nail-knot a six-inch piece of 25-30 pound leader material to the end of the fly line. A loop like those found on snelled hooks is then tied into the opposite end. The connecting leader must also have a loop.

Connecting the leader itself is done by passing the loop attached to the fly line through the loop on the leader; reaching through the fly line loop. Next, grab the butt section of the leader and pull the leader up through until the tippet passes the loop. Last, just pull the loops together by tugging on the fly line and the butt section in opposite directions.

Strategy

If you are every in a situation where see large brown trout in open water and hold, your best bet is to use a No. 12 Cinnamon Ant and sink it. If this doesn’t work, move to the No.16 Adams fly. Still nothing? Switch to the No. 20 Black Ant. Last-ditch effort would be to use a 3X tippet and use a No. 6 nymph or streamer.

Typically the bigger trout will leave small morsels to the small guys, preferring the bigger bites that are easy to get. They are very economical feeders.

High Rider Dry Fly’s

If your best dry-fly patterns are failing you, it may be time to switch to spiders and variants. Many times a spider or variant will bring trout to the surface, then you can switch back to a conventional dry fly.

These spiders and variants will delicately drop to the water, usually somersaulting or jumping after touching it. Fish find this very alluring.

High riding is another attribute of these flies. When tied properly, their hackles support the hook above the water’s surface, thus imitating a natural fly much more closely than the ordinary fly does.